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Baker In Focus
38 Pastry & Baking North America
Baker Shines in
Virginia Hunt Country
T
he town of Warrenton is located in the northern region
of the Commonwealth of Virginia and is about a forty-
five minute drive fromWashington D.C. Known for its
quality of life and scenic beauty, Warrenton strives to protect
and preserve its rich heritage, unique architectural features
and open spaces. It’s no wonder Brian Noyes decided to make
Warrenton home base for Red Truck Bakery’s first retail outlet.
The town was perfect for his vision and after renovating a
1921 Esso filling station in 2009,
the Red Truck Bakery finally had
physical presence to complement its
thriving online business.
As a former art director of
several national magazines
including
Smithsonian
,
Preservation
and
House & Garden
, Brian Noyes
always had a passion for food and
cooking. After he moved to the
nation’s capital to work for
The
Washington Post
, Noyes and his
buddy Dwight bought a small
farm 50 miles west in the Virginia
village of Orlean, planted fruit trees,
and explored the Fauquier and
Rappahannock countryside in a red
1954 Ford farm truck that Noyes
bought from fashion designer
Tommy Hilfiger.
Always looking for a creative outlet, Noyes started making
jams at the farm on Saturdays, slapping a “Red Truck” label
on the jars and selling them through local country stores. The
enthusiasm of his customers led to baking, and soon Noyes
was turning out dozens of loaves of breads, pies and pastries
on Friday nights to meet the weekend demand. When he
showed up in the old red truck early one Saturday to drop
off baked goods and found the parking lot full of waiting
customers – half an hour before the store opened – he knew
he was heading down the right road. When
The New York
Times
featured the Red Truck Bakery in its round-up of their
15 favorite food purveyors across the country two years in a
row, epicureans elsewhere learned of the good things coming
from his farmhouse kitchen.
Noyes has solid professional food
training; he was twice a student at
the prestigious Culinary Institute of
America in Hyde Park, NY studying
café breads and pastries as well as
artisan, hearth & specialty breads.
Noyes was also a pastry arts student at
the L’Academie de Cuisine outside of
Washington, D.C. He was a student at
the CIA’s extended Mexican cooking
course in Oaxaca, Mexico, taught by
renown American chef Rick Bayless,
and completed an advanced bread
course at King Arthur Flour in
Norwich, Vermont.
The Red Truck Bakery couldn’t
be in a more ideal locale. Situated a
stone’s throw away from area farmers
and their organic and naturally-grown
produce and dairy products, Warrenton is the perfect setting
for Brian and his pursuit of all natural offerings.
With a focus on sustainability and being a farm-to-table
champion, Brian Noyes is an intriguing figure in the world of
baking. But, it’s his liberal use of Virginia Lightning 100 proof
moonshine we love the most, thus making him this issue’s
Baker in Focus.